Empowering Palestinian Voices: How Restaurants Are Shaping Cultural Narratives

In the face of the ongoing conflict in the Middle East, Palestinian restaurants in the United States have found themselves thrust into the spotlight, serving as both cultural ambassadors and advocates for their people. As these establishments navigate the complexities of representing their identity and heritage, they are leveraging the power of food to bridge divides, raise awareness, and drive meaningful change.

Reclaiming Identity, Confronting Adversity

Embracing Palestinian Pride

For many Palestinian American restaurateurs, the decision to openly identify their establishments as Palestinian represents a significant shift in their approach. Kamal Kamal, the co-founder of Baba's Pantry in Kansas City, Missouri, explains that his father previously operated under the guise of "Mediterranean" or "Middle Eastern" to avoid the negative associations often linked to Palestinian identity. However, with the opening of Baba's Pantry in 2021, Kamal and his father made a conscious choice to proudly embrace their Palestinian heritage, recognizing it as an integral part of their culinary and cultural narrative.This shift in mindset has been mirrored across the country, as Palestinian restaurants seek to reclaim their identity and share their stories with a wider audience. Luaey Issa, the co-founder of Holy Buckets in Bridgeview, Illinois, a predominantly Palestinian neighborhood, has been vocal about the Palestinian-Israeli conflict and has faced backlash for his outspoken stance. Despite the challenges, Issa remains committed to using his platform to raise awareness and support for the Palestinian cause.

Navigating Polarization and Adversity

The decision to openly identify as Palestinian has not come without its challenges. Many of these establishments have faced a barrage of one-star reviews, theft, and even death threats, as they become targets of anti-Palestinian sentiment. Reem Assil, the founder of Reem's California in San Francisco, has experienced this firsthand, recounting the "crazy rightwing backlash" her restaurant faced around the time of Trump's election.Despite the polarization and adversity, these restaurateurs have chosen to stand firm in their convictions, refusing to compromise their identities or shy away from the issues that matter most to their community. Assil, who has lost more than 40 members of her family due to the ongoing conflict, has been vocal about the "manmade, engineered famine" in Gaza and the need for action to address the humanitarian crisis.

Leveraging Food as a Catalyst for Change

In the face of these challenges, Palestinian restaurateurs are harnessing the power of food to drive cultural change and advocate for their people. Issa, of Holy Buckets, has organized numerous campaigns and initiatives to support the Palestinian cause, including donating 100% of pizza sales and Ramadan sales to aid efforts, as well as providing meals to student organizations engaged in solidarity with Gaza.Similarly, Assil's Reem's California has hosted "eat-in teach-ins," bringing together diverse communities to explore the interconnected struggles of Palestinians, Indigenous peoples, and other marginalized groups. These events serve as a platform to educate, build solidarity, and inspire action.

Redefining Narratives through Culinary Diplomacy

Beyond their immediate communities, these Palestinian restaurateurs are using their platforms to redefine the narratives surrounding their people and their struggle. Kamal of Baba's Pantry believes that the act of serving Palestinian cuisine can have a profound impact, as it allows customers to connect with the humanity and cultural richness of the Palestinian experience.Assil echoes this sentiment, asserting that "restaurants serve as third places in communities between home and their work," and that chefs have a "really powerful role to play in the food and hospitality sector" when it comes to shifting hearts and minds. By sharing their stories, their heritage, and their culinary traditions, these restaurateurs are challenging the dehumanizing stereotypes that have long plagued the Palestinian narrative.

Sustaining Hope and Resilience

Despite the immense challenges they face, these Palestinian restaurateurs remain steadfast in their commitment to their communities and their cause. Issa, of Holy Buckets, acknowledges that the path to change is not an easy one, stating, "To think that we're going to influence change overnight is ridiculous." However, he firmly believes that "you've got to start somewhere" and that the power of food can be a catalyst for education, awareness, and ultimately, progress.Assil, too, expresses a deep sense of optimism, recognizing that "policy does follow culture" and that the food and hospitality sector has a crucial role to play in shifting the narrative. She remains undaunted, driven by the belief that "everybody eats, everybody thinks about food, and at a time where food is one of the central issues, that's a way to speak to the hearts of people of conscience."As these Palestinian restaurateurs continue to navigate the complexities of their identities and the ongoing conflict, they are demonstrating the transformative power of food as a tool for cultural diplomacy, community building, and social change. Their stories serve as a testament to the resilience and determination of the Palestinian people, and a reminder that the power to shape narratives and drive progress lies in the hands of those who are willing to stand up and be heard.