The Copenhagen Fashion Week S/S 2025 edition was a vibrant celebration of Scandinavian style, marked by a sense of joy, sun-drenched skies, and a packed schedule of exciting runway shows and presentations. With a renewed focus on supporting emerging talent and emphasizing sustainability, the event showcased a diverse array of up-and-coming designers poised to reshape the face of Nordic fashion.
Discover the Visionaries Shaping Scandinavian Style
Bonnetje: Upcycling Meets Playful Elegance
Bonnetje, founded by Anna Myntekær and Yoko Maja Hansen in 2021, made a splash with its presentation-slash-runway-show that embodied the energy of rushing off to the airport. Exploring "the beauty of dressing," the design duo upcycled old suits, dress shirts, and tailored pieces into funnel neck blouses, a sheer shift dress with a belted closure, and even a gown of tied jacket sleeves. Bonnetje's collection showcased an exciting sense of play, often missed in the fashion industry, and the collaboration with Swedish luxury brand VENCZEL resulted in standout handbags – pinstriped baguettes and delicate shoulder bags reimagined from old Italian suiting.
Stem: Redefining Sustainable Craftsmanship
In a charming storefront in central Copenhagen, Sarah Brunnhuber presented the third collection for her brand Stem, which pushes the boundaries of handicraft and weaving. Models rotated through the space, showcasing Stem's zero-waste knits and their trailing natural fibres. To create the collection's standout skirts in cream and pale Danish blue, Brunnhuber spent nearly two years developing a signature "pulling" technique with assistant Mathilde Mortens in a mill in Bergamo, Italy. The resulting pieces not only offer a window into the sustainable production process but are also covetable and wearable in their own right.
Nicklas Skovgaard: Exploring the Past, Shaping the Future
Though not a newcomer to Copenhagen Fashion Week, Nicklas Skovgaard's S/S 2025 collection deserves recognition. Titled "Collection 09," the designer's latest offering explores the life of his mother, Annie, during the time she was turning 30 – the same age Skovgaard will turn this year. Skovgaard tapped into 1980s silhouettes, layering juxtaposed fabrics and experimenting with unexpected cuts, all while drawing inspiration from 17th-century trompe L'oeil paintings. The designer's signature drop waist dresses were showcased in an art gallery setting, with models, including frequent collaborator Britt Liberg, twirling through the space in various states of dress.
Berner Kühl: Elevating Scandinavian Menswear
Amidst the sea of Scandinavian menswear brands offering aspirational minimalism, Berner Kühl stood out with its second-ever runway show. Designer Frederik Berner Kühl focused on fabrication and construction, presenting lightweight, silky button-ups that glimmered in the brightly lit space, cheeky sheer knits, and sharp jackets with coated cuffs and collars. The beauty was in the details, as Berner Kühl elevated the everyday staple garments that have become synonymous with Scandinavian style.
Swedish designer Jade Cropper made a much-needed return to Copenhagen, bringing a striking edge to the S/S 2025 festivities. In a dark warehouse with sand covering the floor, Cropper's versatile and transformable silhouettes took center stage. Exploring the "limitlessness" of fashion, each garment was designed to be adaptable, whether it was a leather jacket that converted into a bag or a hook-and-eye jersey dress that could be modified into a low-waisted skirt. Cropper's collection also incorporated references to snakes, symbolizing rebirth, female empowerment, and the cyclical nature of renewal.
